Vinay Kumar Singh.
Head-Formulation
Kumar Organic Products Research Centre Pvt. Ltd.,
Bengaluru
Email : formulation_krc@kopresearchcentre.net
Procysteine, also known as koprosteine, is a modified form of the amino acid cysteine. Procysteine is used in cosmetics as an antioxidant, anti-aging, Skin Lightening ingredient to help protect and improve the skin.
This compound is inert until it is metabolized to cysteine intracellularly . This process stimulates the synthesis of glutathione , a potent antioxidant that protects cells from damage by neutralizing harmful free radicals and peroxides .Procysteine is a water-soluble, more stable version of cysteine.
It is also known as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid.
Antioxidant : Procysteine is often infused into skincare formulations as a way to equip a product with antioxidant protection. In doing so, procysteine helps to protect the skin by neutralizing free-radicals present in the environment. If left unregulated, these harmful molecules can cause damage to the skin’s structural integrity, which may lead to the formation of premature wrinkles and fine lines. By effectively reducing oxidative stress, topical application of procysteine can help maintain skin quality and appearance.
It is non-toxic and stable than cysteine and it is rapidly converted into cysteine and carbon dioxide inside the cells. Cysteine is a key component and building block of the antioxidant glutathione. Cysteine with thiol group responsible for anti-glycation of collagen and is effective against vesicants and percutaneous chemical agents.
Role of Glutathione
• Glutathione is an important anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger.
• It has a number of important functions in amino acid transport across membranes, in protein synthesis and degradation, in gene regulation and in cellular redox regulations.
• Fighting against skin ageing.
• For de-pigmenting or bleaching skin.
• Hair growth promoter and for treatment of baldness.
• In cosmetic compositions for retarding the ageing process.
• Skin lightening: Procysteine can help lighten the skin. Ability of Koprosteine to bind copper ions that are essential for tyrosinase activity responsible for melanin inhibition.
It is an effective depigmenting agent for the topical treatment of hyperpigmentation. It can minimize the appearance of dark spots and help restore radiant and youthful complexion.
• Anti-aging: Procysteine can help improve the appearance of skin that has aged, become atrophied, peeled, discolored, sagged, or wrinkled.
• Detoxification: Procysteine has a detoxification effect.
Koprosteine in Hair Care
• Hair growth
Cysteine helps reverse hair loss by transporting iron and zinc, which are essential nutrients for hair regrowth.
• Hair strength
Cysteine is a key component of keratin, a protein that gives hair its strength and structure.
• Hair health
Cysteine helps hair withstand styling and manipulation. It also helps prevent breakage, tame frizz, and boost shine.
• Hair treatments
Cysteine treatments can make hair softer, shinier, and healthier. They can also help reduce frizz and improve manageability. Cysteine treatments are generally considered safe for most hair types, including color-treated and chemically processed hair.
• Hair loss
A study found that Cysteine and retinol can reverse diffuse hair loss by lowering the telogen rates of hair follicles. Telogen is the resting stage of the hair life cycle, when follicles are not actively producing hair.
• Hair Styling (Perming & Straightening)
In hair, keratin molecules are arranged in straight bundles. These bundles are held together by disulphide bonds (-S-S-).The more disulphide bonds in a strand of hair, the straighter it is. The disulfide bonds are key players for the curls that a perm produces. It can be broken quite easily by reducing agents like Thioglycolates, whose electrons attack the bond.
In a standard cold perm, hair is put into curlers and the reducing agent is added. The disulfide bonds break and keratin molecules are now free to move around and adjust to the shape of the curl.
Then a neutralizer, is added to reverse the effect of the reducing agent. New disulfide bonds form, so the keratin molecules are locked into the shape of the curls.
Koprosteine may help in strengthening the new disulphide bonds in neutralizing process in hair permanent waving.
Toxicity :
Acute Oral LD 50 in mice was found to be >4000mg/kg.
No skin sensitization or skin irritation was found during Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT ) at 2 % & 5 % level.
This is useful for Skin Care, Hair Care and also as additives in various cosmetics for multiple purpose at following use concentration.
Following Example Formulations exhibit its versatile usage.
Age Miracle Skin Cream
Procedure
1. Weigh ingredients of phase A & B separately in a kettle and heat to 70°C.
2. Add phase B to A and mix it by maintaining the temperature 70°C .
3. Homogenize the mixture, add phase C and mix it by maintaining the temperature 40°C under stirrer.
4. Add D and mix it uniformly.
5. Check the pH if required adjust the pH.
6. Mix well. Allow the batch to cool & settle.
Appearance: white creamy texture.
pH : 6-7
Hair Spa Cream
Procysteine has been found to have versatile use in most Cosmetics & Personal care products for multifunctional activities.
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