Bakuchiol (Kopuchiol) in Cosmetics

About Author
Vinay Kumar Singh.  
Head-Formulation
Kumar Organic Products Research Centre Pvt. Ltd.,
Bengaluru
Email : formulation_krc@kopresearchcentre.net

Bakuchiol (Kopuchiol) is a vegan skincare ingredient found in the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi) plant, which is a purple-flowered herb that’s commonly used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine as well as Tamil Siddha practices.

The Psoralea Corylifolia plant is part of ‘The Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia of India’ (Part- I Volume – I) published by Department of Ayush, Ministry of Health and Family Welfare, Government of India. This plant is also listed as ‘Common Medicinal Plants of Ayurveda’ at National Health Portal. The plant where Bakuchiol comes from, is endemic to certain Asian countries such as India, Himalayan regions of Pakistan and China. It is a wild species that has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.

The whole plant is used to treat various conditions like laxative, aphrodisiac, and diuretic. But the seeds, commonly called Babchi seeds have significant medicial properties in particular for skin diseases. It has been used both topically and internally to treat leukoderma or psoriasis or leprosy.

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene (a chemical compound having a partial terpenoid structure) in the class terpenophenol.

It was first isolated in 1966 by Mehta et al. from Psoralea corylifolia seed and was called Bakuchiol based on the sanskrit name Bakuchi of the plant. It is a wild leguminous plant that grows from 60-100 cm and takes 7 to 8 months to reach maturity.

The seeds that contain Bakuchiol are wild harvested between December and January. It has also been isolated from other plants, such as P. grandulosa, P. drupaceae, Ulmus davidiana, Otholobium pubescens, Piper longum and Aerva sangulnolenta Blum.

Although Bakuchiol has shown many physiological properties and has been known for well over 45 years, and the first complete synthesis of Bakuchiol has been described in 1973, its first commercial use in topical applications did not occur until 2007 when it was introduced to the market under the trade name Sytenol® A, by Sytheon Ltd, a 99% purity Bakuchiol. Free from unwanted compounds, it is the only version of Bakuchiol registered by REACH (EC # 685-515-4), the regulation of the European Union, aiming to improve the protection of human health and the environment notably in cosmetics.

Bakuchiol has been on the market for years, yet its popularity reached a new level in 2019 with the publication in British journal of Dermatology where it was compared to retinol in a double-blind clinical study.
Nominated by Mintel among the top 3 skincare ingredients to trend in 2019.
It has been reported to have anticancer activity in preclinical models, possibly due to its structural similarity with resveratrol. One study in rats suggested that Bakuchiol and ethanol extracts of the Chinese medicinal plant Psoralea corylifolia could protect against bone loss.

Bakuchiol has the added ability to strengthen skin’s moisture barrier (via the upregulation of genes responsible for barrier function), which reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as well as irritation.  Bakuchiol is also an anti-inflammatory, so it rarely triggers the redness and peeling that are often part and parcel with the initial application of many retinol products.
This plant-based compound is used as an alternative to retinol for people with sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-
bacterial  properties.

Bakuchiol isolated from P. corylifolia has shown activity against numerous Gram-positive and Gram-negative oral pathogens. It was able to inhibit the growth of Streptococcus mutans under a range
of sucrose concentrations, pH values and in the presence of organic acids in a temperature-dependent manner and also inhibited the growth of cells adhered to a glass surface.

Bakuchiol is known to be a gentler alternative to retinol but has many of the same benefits.
Despite having no structural resemblance to retinol, Bakuchiol was found to have retinol functionality through retinol-like regulation of gene expression. This similarity was confirmed by the side-by-side comparison of the modulation of individual genes, as well as on the protein level by ELISA and histochemistry.

In 2018, a randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study with 44 volunteers demonstrated that Bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photo-aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation) but has a better skin tolerance.
Bakuchiol has been found to possess antiandrogenic activity in prostate cancer cells, which inhibited cell proliferation.
According to a study in The British Journal of Dermatology, bakuchiol is not only as effective as retinol at targeting fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone; it’s also less irritating. "Much like a retinol, Bakuchiol triggers the genetic pathway in skin cells to create several types of collagen that are useful in skin health and anti-aging,"

However, it doesn't decrease the size of oil glands—so that means no stubborn dryness or irritation. Plus, unlike retinol, which can make the skin more sensitive to the sun (always make sure to wear SPF during the day), Bakuchiol may actually help to make skin less sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays.

According to the study in The British Journal of Dermatology, after 12 weeks, individuals treated with Bakuchiol saw major improvements in wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and photodamage overall. In addition to its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties, Bakuchiol also enhances anti-acne properties.

Bakuchiol offers following benefits.
1. Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Like retinol, Bakuchiol tells your cells to make collagen, "plumping" your skin, bringing in significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, as well as skin elasticity, firmness and overall reducing in photo-damage. The positive results were comparable to those of retinol facial application.
2. Boosts Skin Elasticity and Firmness
Several studies indicate that Bakuchiol extract helps improve skin elasticity and firmness. One clinical study found that a night facial serum made from Bakuchiol, melatonin and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a derivative of vitamin C) was able to increase skin firmness after 12 weeks.
3. Stimulates Collagen and Speeds up skin cell regeneration
Studies show that Bakuchiol serum takes part in the upregulation of types I and IV collagen in DNA and stimulates type III collagen. This means that the compound works to boost the production of collagen and prevents collagen loss, much like retinol.
Because collagen serves as a protein that helps form the skin and connective tissues throughout the body, increasing its production supports healthy aging and reduce wrinkles, lines and age spots.
4. Soothes Rough and Damaged Skin
Bakuchiol has nourishing, anti-inflammatory effects, so it’s often used to soothe rough, dry and damaged skin. It has hydrating properties, including squalane, an antioxidant that’s high in fatty acids and supports skin health.
Bakuchiol has soothing properties which help to comfort skin and minimise issues associated with sensitivity and reactivity. The soothing and calming properties of Bakuchiol could help those with acne-prone skin in addition to skin that is beginning to show signs of ageing. Research has shown that Bakuchiol has a range of anti-ageing benefits for skin. It can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, help restore firmness, refine skin texture and even out skin tone.
Research suggests that squalane derived from plant sources acts as a quencher of singlet oxygen, protecting the skin’s surface from damage due to exposure to UV rays and other sources of ionizing radiation. Its emollient, moisturizing effects relieve inflamed, damaged skin and ease skin disorders like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
By promoting cell turnover and healthy cell regeneration, Bakuchiol helps soothe and heal your skin from the inside out

5. Fights Acne
Another Bakuchiol benefit for skin comes from its antibacterial effects, allowing it to fight acne. One study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that a complex containing Bakuchiol, ginkgo biloba and mannitol was able to improve the efficacy of adapalene, a vitamin A derivative, for treating acne.
A pilot study noted that Bakuchiol reduced acne by a score of about 57 percent, whereas salicylic acid reduced acne by only 48 percent. When the two ingredients were used together, they reduced acne lesions and inflammation up to 70 percent.

6. Improves Hyperpigmentation and Evens skin tone
Hyperpigmentation is the discoloration or darkening of skin. It can lead to dark spots or streaks on the surface of your skin and can occur after spending too much time in the sun or following an acne breakout. In 2018, a randomized, double-blind, 12-week clinical study with 44 volunteers demonstrated that Bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photo-aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation) but has a better skin tolerance.
With a potentially better safety profile when compared to retinoids, Bakuchiol deeply penetrates the skin to help lessen the appearance of dark spots or areas of hyperpigmentation.

7. Works as an Antioxidant
A recent study published in Pharmacological Research highlights that Bakuchiol is a newly discovered “warrior against organ damage.” This is due to the compound’s antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and estrogen-like effects. It is a potent antioxidant and helps fight signs of ageing, such as fine lines and loss of firmness by targeting free radicals. Antioxidants also help to protect the skin from pollution and environmental stressors which can cause damage.
8. Doesn't cause dryness or irritation: While retinol and other skincare ingredients may dry out skin or cause irritation, Bakuchiol is more gentle and isn't known to cause any irritation.
9. Suitable for all skin types: Being gentle on skin, mostly anyone can use Bakuchiol.
Backuchiol has proved to exert protective effects in the heart, liver, skin and other organs, according to researchers. It may inhibit liver fibrosis, inhibit cancer cells,  including in the stomach, breast and skin, reduce blood glucose and triglycerides, protects  bone .
There are currently "no known studies that reflect any unwanted or negative side effects of Bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is being touted as the safer, gentler option when compared to retinoids. It’s a plant-based, completely natural compound that doesn’t cause drying or irritation in most cases.
When paired with retinol, bakuchiol can help stabilise it and keep it effective for longer. Another benefit of using products that contain both bakuchiol and retinol is that bakuchiol’s calming ability may enable skin to tolerate retinol in higher amounts. Since an increasing number of skincare products contain Bakuchiol. Concentration of 0.5-2% is ideal to get visible benefits.
Products With Bakuchiol

Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil -Enriched with a blend of botanical ingredients, including rosehip and sweet almond oils, Omorovicza’s Miracle Facial Oil has been a  favourite of for a while now. Added bakuchiol is meant to repair the skin, target wrinkles, and encourage natural collagen production. It is hydrating and leaves the skin soft and supple. This is perfect for people who hate that greasy feel.

Oskia Super 16 Serum - A powerful super serum that targets the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and fine lines, Oskia’s Super 16 Serum blends 16 super ingredients, including Bakuchiol. The lightweight serum promises to improve elasticity while repairing and soothing sun-damaged and irritated skin. Its use effect a plumper, clearer, more radiant-looking complexion.
Herbivore Bakuchiol -For smoothing texture. It is a retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum.
Bybi Bakuchiol Booster Every Day Vegan Facial Oil Treatment -Used for reducing fine lines.
Innbeauty Project Slushy Serum Moisturizer Crush -This is used to target pores.
Indeed Labs Bakuchiol Reface Pads- This is used for clearing acne.

Plum 1% Retinol Face Serum with Bakuchiol - Reduces Fine Lines & Wrinkles and Promotes Cell Turnover for Youthful, Smooth Skin .

Lotus Organics+ Bakuchiol Plant Retinol Face Night Cream - for fine lines & wrinkles, reveal glowing radiant skin.

Ojas Night Beauty Balm with Babchi- Pairing  Vitamin enriched Night Creams including Date & Litchi and Jasmine & Patchouli with the Babchi infused Ojas Balm, encourages the skin’s hydration levels, and is known to boost collagen & elastin expression.

As we at Kumar Organic Products, manufacture Bakuchiol (Kopuchiol), we too have developed following formulation for antiaging, improving skin tone, enhancing elasticity & moisturization.

Skin Cream with Bakuchiol

Procedure
1. Weigh phases A & B ingredients separately and heat to 70-80°C.
2. Add phase B to A with continuous the stirring.
3. Homogenize the mixture for 5-7mins at 5500rpm.
4. Add phase C to the emulsion (Phase AB) at 45oC, with continuous stirring.
5. Add phase D to adjust the pH. Mix well, allow the batch to cool & settle.

*Note: Viscosity is determined  using Brookfield viscometer, Model LVDV Ⅱ+PRO,
Spindle no: S6.3. RPM: 30RPM, 26⁰C
Ref: FD/AT/10/044
Stability: Passes 12weeks at 45°C and passes 3 freeze/thaw cycles
Product was observed to be stable without any colour change or separation.

While retinol can sometimes cause redness, burning and stinging, studies show that pure Bakuchiol is gaining attention for its ability to improve acne, melasma, photo aging and hyperpigmentation without the adverse effects.