ABOUT AUTHOR:
Vinay Kumar Singh
General Manager-Technical,
Mikasa Cosmetics Limited,
Ahmedabad, Gujarat
vinay.s@mikasacosmetics.com
To understand Ayurvedic Cosmetics one must think as to what is the synergy between Ayurveda and Cosmetics. The word ‘cosmetics’ is derived from the Greek word ‘kosmeticos’ which means skill decoration or skill in arranging in order or correcting the deformities. Cosmetics is applied topically to skin and its appendages to cleanse, decorate, beautify, alter the appearance and ultimately to enhance confidence of user.
Beauty is more than skin deep according to Ayurveda. It is the most obvious external manifestation of overall well being. It is a mirror to your physical, mental and spiritual wellness.
Ayurveda is considered as one of the ancient sciences of Health & Medicine. This complete health includes cosmetic aspects as well. As Ayurveda the concept of beauty has an age-old origin as well. Ancient scriptures like Abhijnana Shakuntalam and Meghadootam of Kalidasa and many mythological epics mention the reference of cosmetics like Tilak, Kajal, Kumkum, Alita and Agaru that were used for cosmetic purposes. In fact, the concept of beauty and cosmetics is as old as mankind and civilization. Safe solutions, no side effects, use of natural herbs, long lasting impacts etc. have made Ayurveda as choicest cosmetology.
The famous depictions in the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Khajurao prove that not only women but men also adorned themselves with jewelry, scents and cosmetics. Enscripted in history is the Aryan period that witnessed the use of Turmeric- Haridra, Saffron, Alkanet, Agaru, and Chlorophyll green from nettle plants and Indigo, Raktachandan, Chandan for beautification. Using Mehendi (henna) for dying hair in different colors and conditioning was also practiced in the olden times
Use Of Ayurveda For Beauty Care In Ancient India
Around 6000 years ago, one of the greatest sages of India, Vyasadeva wrote down the Vedas for the first time. The Vedas, regarded as Sruti ("that which is heard"), form part of an oral tradition in the form of an ancient teacher-disciple tradition. As per Hindu tradition the Vedas were 'revealed' to the Rishis referred to in the texts, not composed or written by them.
The four main Vedas are the Rig, Sama, Yajur and Atharva Veda. The Vedas are the main scriptural texts of the Sanatana Dharma. The Vedas are arguably the oldest surviving texts in the world. Ayurveda was a sub section attached to the Atharva Veda. Ayurveda is the oldest and most holistic health system available to human beings today. This ancient wisdom of healing, prevention and longevity was a part of the spiritual tradition of a universal religion before it was written down in texts.
There is evidence of highly advanced ideas of self beautification by both men and women, in ancient India. Many of these practices were subtly interwoven with the seasons (Sanskrit: Rutus) and the normal rituals of life (Sanskrit: Dinachary?). Significantly, the use of these products was directed not only towards developing an outwardly pleasant and attractive personality, but towards achieving merit (Sanskrit: Punya), Longevity with good health (Sanskrit: Aayush and Aarogyam) and happiness (Sanskrit: Anandam).The ancient use of beauty products is believed to have originated in India.The earliest records of products and their application dates back to Circa 2500 and 1550 B.C, to the Indus valley civilization.In this context, the earliest reference of a beautician is from the great epic Mahabharata, where the Pandavas were in exile incognito. Draupadi worked for the queen of Vir?ta (Northern district of India). She called herself Sairandhri (A female attendant in the women's sections of the palace). There is a reference of her carrying a Pras?dhana Petik? (A vanity case containing substances to beautify, toiletries and accessories to decorate).Different Lep?s (Masks or applications) were recommended for different seasons for body beautification. The ingredients used during the cold seasons were quite different from those used in warm seasons. In fact Asht?nga Hridaya (a 1500 year old book of Ayurveda) offers six different formulations to be used for the six seasons of the year. Similarly special Ayurvedic Tailams (Oils) and Ghritas (Clarified butter or ghee) were used for facial beautification. Special ingredients were used for hair washes. Many remedies have been indicated for hair growth, prevention of falling hair and premature graying. Hair dyes, fragrant hair rinses were also in use. Fragrant bath powders and body deodorants also find frequent mention.
Skin According to Ayurveda
Skin has special status in AyurvedaAs skin is an Upadhatu of the Raktadhatu, it is a mirror that reflects the qualities of the Raktadhatu (blood) and the Rasadhatu (body's plasma tissue). Hence it is a common saying that 'glowing skin is the result of good quality Rasa and Rakta'.
“ dharmaarthou sthreeshu lakshmishcha sthreeshu
lokaaha prathishtithaaha |
suroopaa yauvanasthaa yaa lakshanairyaa vibhooshithaa ||
yaa vashyaa shikshithaa yaa cha saa sthree vrishyatamaa mathaa|”
Means “ dharma (principles), money or lakshmi (godess of prosperity) are present in woman. the whole world exists in woman. the woman who is beautiful, young, educated and who is in her senses is considered as the best aphrodisiac”
We all are creations of beautiful nature. There is no word as ugly in nature’s creations. The judgment of grades of beauty lies in the vision of viewer. One looks beautiful and radiant only when his inner beauty surfaces. This inner beauty is gained through yoga, meditation and use of natural beauty enhancers.
Ayurveda believes that beauty is harmony of the whole body – the body, mind and soul. Ayurvedic cosmetic techniques, materials and formulations exist for several thousands of years and are described in ancient manuscripts, and has passed the test of time. Ancient Indian medicine teaches that where there is harmony, there is also health, but when there is no harmony, there is disease. Ayurveda has several benefits in skin, hair and body care. Plant extracts and natural substances have been formulated into cosmetics products, according to Ayurveda System, not only for the daily care of the skin and hair, but also for the treatment of many problems. One of the major benefits is that biologically active ingredients are easily absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin and influence it at cellular level. Now a days many bio-engineered actives are available which are proven to be very effective.
Ayurveda Medicine as Cosmetics: Charak samhita classified Cosmetics as Varnya, Kustanga, Kandugna, bayasthapak,Udardaprasamana etc. Many alepam (poultice) Pradeha, anjana, taila are described in Susruta Samhita and Astanga hrudaya in the context of twak roga. The common medicine are Kungkumadi lepam, Dasnga lepam, Chadanadi lepam, Dasana samskar churna, Kumkumadi taila, Nilibringaraj taila, Himsagar taila etc. are very well established medicine in Ayurveda. Sesame oil is used as a base in many oil in Ayurveda. It contains lignin compound called Sesamin and Sesamolin, which are biologically active. These compounds enhance oxidative stability of the oil. They have potential to be used as anti-oxidant compounds and also moisturizer. Turmeric used has active Curcumin which are very effective in bringing glow to the skin. Shikakai is used as hair shampoo has saponins making it mild detergent having neutal pH. Similarly Aritha too has saponins. There are many such effective herbs which are mentioned in Ayurveda.
Indian market has been traditionally inclined towards natural products for their beauty needs. Indian have long history and knowledge of using natural products. While consumer in rest of the world have to be educated about benefits of natural herbs. This knowledge is well inherited in India from generations. Requirement is to translate the ancient Ayurvedic recipes into Modern formats with superior Quality.
According to the Ayurveda, each human has an individual constitution, which forms a certain set of qualities and characteristics. In modern language, it is referred to as the "working drawing", a number of traits that are inherited through the genetic code. Since the ancient times Ayurveda has called it Prakriti or individual constitution, which does not change throughout the life.
This is our unique energy pattern, individual combination of physical, mental and emotional characteristics. Ayurveda is an art of healing based on the knowledge of the individual constitution of the human body, it helps to design a lifestyle most suitable in terms of restoring and maintaining health. It is your unique body structure that can explain why, for example, you always need to dress warm, while your neighbor feels great in a T-shirt at the same time. Why do some people eat whatever they want to and in any quantity, while not gaining any excess weight, while others try to lose weight by dieting, extreme methods of weight loss or even starving? Why are we so different? The answer to this question lies in Ayurveda.
Ancient texts teach us that the universe is composed of five basic elements: space, ether, fire, water, and earth. Combinations of these elements create so-called doshas, or the types of energy. The whole world around us, including ourselves, holds different proportions and combinations of all of these types of energy, or doshas. Doshas are Vata (ether and space), Pitta (fire and water), and Kapha (water and earth).
From our birth, we inherit these types of energy from our parents, which in return determines our diversity.
The first step towards the balance is to determine your leading dosha, that is, the type of energy that is dominant over two others doshas. Usually this dominant type of energy tends to push the whole body to imbalance.
Vata dosha (ether and wind)
This dosha is the most susceptible to change. People with this type of dominant energy are light, lively and cheerful. They have great imagination, but their behavior is often unpredictable. They usually are tall or short, thin, have dry skin and thin body structure. They are sensitive to cold. They are eager to start something new, but rarely bring anything to fruition.
Pitta dosha (fire and water)
These people are fiery. They tend to rush into politics or business. They want to be first everywhere and in anything. Hot climate and spicy food are contraindicated.
Kapha dosha (water and earth)
These people are usually burly, they are unhurried, even slow, yet steady and confident – they are the most reliable friends. They dislike cold and wet weather. This dosha is hardest to budge and least susceptible. But illnesses that are triggered by the lack of this dosha are the most difficult to treat.
According to Ayurveda, the main criterion of a good health is maintenance of the balance of all your doshas. This is not an easy thing to do. After all, the world around us lives in accordance to the rules of these energies and similar energies tend to power-up each other.
Any violation of these rules can harbor problems in the future. Treatment methods are simple: if you take in mind that each person has their own nature (prakrti), it is necessary to define it, then to find out the state of the doshas of the body and to prescribe congruent treatment.
Panchakarma is an Ayurvedic method of cleansing and healing the body.
Panchakarma is the most ancient method of purification and rejuvenation of the body, as well as mind and conscience renovation technique. Panchakarma is beneficial to the overall health, well-being, self-healing and stress relief. According to Ayurveda, the natural state of human is a state of health, happiness and inner sense of well-being. Ayurveda has criteria for this kind of state: there must be no toxins in the organism, mind must be balanced, emotions must be calm and positive, and all the systems of organs must function normally. In today's busy, stressful and toxic world, accumulation of stress in both physical and mental life spheres can lead to different health issues. This eventually weakens organ systems, spoils health, which in return leads to different diseases.
Panchakarma helps to reverse these negative effects of daily life. It restores the natural state of health and well-being, cleanses the body from toxins, and the nervous system from stress. As a result of treatment, harmony and balance are restored and the functions of the whole system are improved. Panchakarma helps to support this process through positive changes in lifestyle.
Panchakarma is a set of therapeutic procedures, simple to practice, but extremely effective. Therefore Panchakarma is a unique, all-natural, holistic and useful set of therapeutic procedures that deeply cleanses the body tissues from toxins, opens the subtle channels, brings life energy and thereby increases the life force, develops the inner spiritual world, provides confidence and well-being.
Ayurveda and Yoga are closely related to each other; we can say that they are two sides of the same coin. In fact, Ayurveda is a healing side of yoga, yoga – the spiritual side of Ayurveda. Together they create the perfect body, the unity of mind and soul. If you are doing Hatha yoga, a slight acquaintance with Ayurveda will help you to improve your skills and achieve inner harmony and balance.
Thus Ayurvedic Cosmetics can be defined as Cosmetics that uses actives having Ayurvedic references and are effective in delivering promised result.
Skin Care
Skin is our body’s biggest organs and any imbalances have an impact on the skin. Various skin problems like acne, dryness, wrinkles, marks are a result of these imbalances or deficiencies. One has to identify various herbs which benefit the skin and address the imbalances.
Hair Care
Today hair care is one of the most important areas of concern. The presence of strong chemicals in shampoos and hair coloring systems has caused damage to our natural hair and scalps. In addition these products contain ingredient which are not easily bio-degradable and hence harm the environment. Proper selection of Ayurvedic herbs which address problems like falling hair, premature graying, dandruff and dryness needs to be done.
Colour
Lipsticks rich in Ghee and other organic vegetables oils and butters which keep the lips moistened all the time are in the market. The colors used therein are of mineral origin, so the lipsticks are completely natural and safe.
Kajal is made from a traditional recipe where vegetable oil is burnt overnight in a lamp and soot is collected in the morning. This soot is then mixed with ghee and applied to the eyes to protect them from the heat & dust as well as add mystique.
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Advantages of Ayurveda in beauty care
- Long history of safe human usage.
- Offers safety from irritative after-effects.
- The human body responds well to natural substances.
- The skin and scalp are influenced at the cellular level, helping to improve normal functions.
- Promotes the capacity to absorb products.
- Restores the normal balances.
- Herbs have a mild effect, but have powerful and specific healing properties.
- Particularly suited to skin and hair care.
- Natural fragrances of flower and herb extracts help to calm the nerves and induce relaxation
Apart from its long history of practical usage and the element of safety, Ayurveda has several benefits in skin, hair and body care. Plant extracts and natural substances have been formulated into cosmetic products, according to the Ayurvedic system, not only for the daily care of the skin and hair, but also for the treatment of many problems. One of the major benefits is that biologically active ingredients are easily absorbed into the deeper layers of the skin and influence it at the cellular level.
For centuries, the west has been attracted to Indian spices and herbs. Today, many Indian plants are being used in the formulation of modern medicines. Research has also been conducted into the medicinal properties and other traditional uses of those ingredients, which have been a part of Ayurvedic pharmacopeia and folk medicine. This has helped to provide scientific support to the empirical knowledge contained in Ayurveda.
Many of these medicinal ingredients have also been in use due to their effects on the skin and scalp and have proved to be ideal in external treatments. There are formulations for the treatment of specific problems, like acne, pigmented skin, freckles, premature ageing, scars, skin-sensitivity, dehydration, dark circles, enlarged pores, dandruff, hair damage, hair loss and alopecia.
The ingredients that have been selected for these formulations not only have specific curative properties, but have shown a lack of harmful after-effects and irritative reactions. In fact, many of them help to soothe the skin and cure inflammatory conditions. Ayurvedic ingredients are chosen according to their ability to increase or reduce specific doshas. Herbs are also remarkably versatile. They can have a combination of effects, allowing the entire scope of the problem to be treated. For instance, a particular herb may cleanse the skin, restore the normal acid-alkaline balance and also have a germicidal and soothing effect. Thus, the properties of the herb can be related to individual needs.
Neem (margosa) is one such versatile tree and every part of which is used for healing purposes. Neem leaf infusions have been used to cure skin diseases and are still used to relieve itching, soothe rashes, create a germicidal environment and clear inflammatory conditions. Neem contains organic sulphur compounds, which have powerful and versatile healing actions.
Nature is not only an expert chemist, but the best cosmetologist. An entire range of cosmetic products exists in nature, with definite preventive and corrective actions.
Henna, which is so much in use today, has its basis in the ancient dyeing method, when chemical dyes and colourants were unknown. Apart from imparting colour, henna has also proved to be an effective natural conditioner. It has the ability of coating each hair shaft, lending strength, body and shine to the hair. Henna has been combined with other herbal extracts, like 'bael' (Aegle marmelos), 'amla' (Emblica officinalis), 'brahmi'(Centella asiatica), arnica, hibiscus and so on, to formulate hair cleansers, tonics, rinses, nourishers etc. These preparations have helped to bring back health to damaged hair, promote hair growth and maintain the health of the hair and scalp, apart from controlling dandruff and other problems.
Amla (Embelica officinalis) is another such popular ingredient. The ancient physician Charaka referred to amla as a medicine that delays aging, because of its high Vitamin C content. It is said that the Vitamin C content of amla is so stable that it is resistant to heat.
Trifala, a combination of three herbs, has varied uses, from toning the scalp to curing eye ailments and digestive disorders, soothing cough and inflammation. It consists of amla, haritaki (Terminalis chebula) and vibhitika (Terminalis belerica). Bilva (Aegle marmalos) and Brahmi (Indian Pennywort) have also been used in hair care.
Bilva helps to control Vata and cures hair problems and inflammatory conditions, while Brahmi helps to control stress-related problems, as it has a calming effect on the nerves, apart from other beneficial properties. Brahmi (Centella asiatica) is well known for its ability to bring back health to the hair, as its fragrance induces relaxation and helps in cases of stress related conditions like alopecia and general hair loss. Other ingredients, like amla (Emblica officinalis), shikakai (Acacia concinna), reetha (sapindus trifoliatus), bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), anantmul (Hemidesmus indicus), have been used into tonics, oils, cleansers and conditioners for hair care. They have been effective in the treatment of dandruff, seborrhoea, alopecia and general hair loss.
Sandalwood is one of the most popular cosmetic ingredient used in India. It has been mentioned in ancient Indian texts as far back as the 5th century BC. It has powerful germicidal and antiseptic properties, while its exotic fragramce is said to have a relaxing effect on the mind. Not only does sandalwood soothe the skin and heal inflammatory conditions, but also has anti-ageing and rejuvenating effects. It is ideal for all skin types. Protective creams have been formulated with sandalwood, to protect the skin from the effects of pollutants, sun-exposure, dehydration and skin sensitivity. Sandalwood oil and extracts have been used in many other formulations, from light moisturizers, rich body shampoos, body lotions, massage oils, to after-shave creams. In fact, the gentle action of sandalwood makes it ideal for baby-care products too, soothing and preventing prickly heat and other rashes.
Tulsi (Holy Basil) has so many medicinal uses that it has been traditionally venerated and worshipped.In fact I wonder at the decisive mind of our ancestors that they associated Basil with religion that people even in place like Mumbai have Basil in their household including slum. Modern research has revealed that it helps to purify the air, apart from its soothing and curative actions on the skin and scalp.
Extracts and oil of rose are also common beauty aids. Oil of rose, in fact, originated in India. It has been used for centuries, in various ways, both for its healing action and delightful fragrance. The fragrance of rose, sandalwood, brahmi and other natural scents is said to have a soothing and relaxing effect on the nerves. In fact, rose was used as an anti-depressant during ancient times. Today, we know that a relaxed mind is one of the pre-requisites of healthy skin and hair, because mental stress can trigger off many skin and hair problems, like acne, alopecia and general hair loss. Rose is suited to all skin types and has a refreshing effect too. It has powerful tonic properties, improves skin texture and soothes inflammations. It can assume the role of a cleanser-cum-refreshing lotion for all types of skins. In fact, it even benefits the delicate skin around the eyes, reducing puffiness and fatigue.
Herbs and natural substances also help to promote the elimination of toxins and wastes, as well as dead epithelial cells, thus encouraging the regeneration of new cells. This, in turn, helps to preserve the youthful qualities of the skin. The aging process can be hastened by many factors, among which exposure to sunlight is the most significant. Chemical pollutants, artificial heating and cooling, make-up cosmetics, chlorinated water, alkaline soaps, can also trigger off the manifestation of aging signs. Neglect and abuse also take their toll. Such assaults cause the skin to become dry, lose its resilience and wrinkle easily. Chronic lack of moisture can be a single factor that causes premature aging of the skin.
It is only through daily cleansing and care with natural ingredients that the skin can be protected from early aging and other problems. Cleansers containing powerful moisturizers, like aloe vera, have been formulated to remove impurities without disturbing the moisture balance. They also improve the skin's ability to retain moisture and restore the normal acid-alkaline balance. Aloe vera is also known to help cell renewal. During the ancient times, aloe vera was used to heal cuts and wounds, as it speeds up the skin's cell renewal. Extracts of aloe vera, lemon, ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), turmeric, rose, etc., have been used to formulate cleansers and protective creams for the skin.
Similarly, almond, wheatgerm, lavender, jasmine, balsam, sesame and many such herbal extracts form the ingredients of emollient nourishing creams. Wheatgerm oil is rich in Vitamin E and helps to protect the tissues from degeneration. Almond is ideal for the delicate skin around the eyes, keeping it free from wrinkles and dark circles. These vitamin and mineral rich extracts benefit the skin by increasing blood flow and restoring damaged capillaries. Aloe vera,Sesame seed, sunflower oils and even sandalwood are known for their sunscreen properties. Such natural sun-filters have been used in sun-block products, along with natural rehydrants and humectants.
Apart from plant products, Ayurveda also used metals and gems for healing. These have been incorporated in formulations for skin care, mainly due to their powerful age-control properties. Among these are gold, diamond, gems and powder of pearls.
According to the new report “India Ayurvedic Cosmetics Market Outlook 2018” from Kuick Research, consumers worldwide are going green, and this is especially true in the cosmetics market. Over the last few years, growth in the beauty market has been driven by products that use natural or herbal components, and the market share of natural-based products has been increasing gradually. Companies are increasingly feeling pressurized to focus on sustainability and reduce their environmental footprints while consumers are more aware and better informed than ever before. They are becoming conscious of the ingredients that go into the products they use and are averse to chemicals that are known to cause side effects. On the supply side, companies are engaging in advanced research of plant-derived peptides, encapsulated actives, active plant stem cells, complex extraction processes and clinical testing to deliver products that are acceptable to the well-informed customers.
During the last decade, the herbal beauty care business has emerged as a new growth frontier for beauty business in India, and the emphasis has been on the spectacular growth of the herbal and ayurvedic beauty products business. Today, the Indian cosmetics industry has a plethora of herbal cosmetic brands like Forest Essentials, Biotique, Himalaya, Blossom Kochhar, VLCC, Dabur and Lotus, and many more are adding to the list. In addition to a widening base of consumers, color cosmetics and anti-aging and anti-wrinkle creams are expected to be the future drivers of growth in this segment.
The market for ayurvedic cosmetics products in India is expected to grow at a rapid pace over the coming decades. The market is only beginning to become populated with ayurvedic brands, and it will be a while until it gets too crowded. Ayurvedic manufacturers are investing in research and are constantly coming up with new and innovative technology and products that are resulting in better and more effective ayurvedic cosmetics. Ayurvedic cosmetics are still competing with synthetic products and they need to strive to ensure quality that is similar to synthetic brands.?
Consumer trends suggest a gradual shift from chemical-based products to ayurvedic beauty products. Growing concern over side-effects of chemical-based products is the main reason.
The demand for such chemical-free and environment-friendly products is growing the world over.
Lack of standardisation, documentation and quality control are some of the key issues facing this industry. Chemical adulteration is another problem which negates the value and USP of these products.
Ayurvedic Cosmetology is a System that can clearly bring out a clear glowing skin with true inner happiness and relaxation.
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