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ALL ABOUT COSMETICS

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About Authors:
Ms.Roseline
MBA, B.Pharm.
Independent Cosmetic Consultant.
Hyderabad.
g.roseline28@gmail.com

ABSTRACT
The Indian cosmetic Industry has witnessed rapid growth over the last couple of decades. In that time the range of cosmetic and beauty products in India has widened tremendously. Beauty products manufacturers in India mostly cater to the great demand for cosmetics and toiletries that fall into the low or medium-price categories as the greatest demand in India has always been for these economically priced products.
However, in recent years in the cosmetics market India competitors have begun to manufacture products to cater to an International need. For instance, herbal cosmetics from India have a great demand in the overseas market and many cosmetic products that are manufactured in India today are supplied to international suppliers of branded cosmetics products like The Body Shop for example. New facts that have been unveiled by a series of cosmetics business market analysis India reveal that many International companies are now outsourcing cosmetics to India and that the industry of cosmetic products India is growing at an average rate of almost twenty percent annually. This increase is attributed to two main factors. The first being the increase for the demand in Indian cost-effective products and the second being the increased purchasing power of the average Indian.

There are also many reasons for the increased demand for cosmetic products in particular. With the introduction of satellite television and a wide array of television channels as well as the internet, the average Indian consumer is constantly bombarded with advertisements and information on new cosmetic products which often translated into the desire to purchase them. A boom in the Indian fashion industry has been linked to the increased awareness of Indian people about their appearances and consequently contributed to an increase in the demand for cosmetic products.

However, even with the massive surge in the popularity of cosmetic products, statistics have shown that the average Indian consumer spends much less on cosmetic products than consumers from every other part of the world. This means that the Indian cosmetic industry has an even greater potential for growth than it is presently experiencing.

In the entire range of products that fall within the territory of the Indian Cosmetic and toiletries market, the most popular items are color cosmetics, of which nail varnish, lipsticks and lip glosses account for the most sales. In this area, popular local brand names include Lakme and Revlon. Skin-care cosmetics have experienced a slower growth and products such as anti-wrinkle creams, cleaners and toners, for instance are not as popular as facial creams, moisturizers and fairness creams in this genre. Companies like Ponds and Fair and Lovely rule the roost in this segment.

Unilever and Procter & Gamble are major players in the Indian Cosmetic sector of shampoos and hair products. However, the Indian hair-care Cosmetic sector now has a few foreign brands to compete with these giants as well. Finally, one of the most popular cosmetic produced in India are herbal cosmetics which have gained popularity internationally in recent years. Shahnaz Husain, Emami and Biotique products are the most well-known in this area.

 


Reference Id: PHARMATUTOR-ART-1458

INTRODUCTION
Cosmetics
 are products that are created for application on the body for the purpose of cleansing, beautifying or altering appearance and enhancing attractive features. But cosmetics are not the same thing as medicines and cosmetics cannot be used to alter a body’s functions or performance.

With growing ecological and health awareness, modern cosmetics are available in the form of organic cosmetics, mineral cosmetics and even environmentally friendly cosmetics to cater to an overwhelming demand for such products. The Indian cosmetic industry includes a long list of cosmetic product buyers, importers, wholesalers, distributors and manufacturers.

Beauty cosmetic products that are manufactured in India include an extensive range of make-up cosmetics and toiletries like skin creams and lotions, perfumes, lipsticks and lip gloss, nail varnish, toothpastes, deodorants and eye and face make-up products to cite a few examples. Discount cosmetics can be purchased in bulk directly from bulk dealers in India.

There are also a variety of permanent cosmetics and cosmetic treatments available in the Indian cosmetic market which can be used to create permanent make-up-like effects like one could have permanent eyeliner on their eyelid by getting it tattooed onto the eyelid. Some ladies also like to get permanent eyebrows. Such procedures are also referred to as cosmetic tattooing.

Such techniques should only be applied by trained professionals and usually require the joint efforts of a dermatologist, an esthetician and a plastic surgeon. One has to be especially careful because such techniques employ the use of inks which are injected into the skin and hence the quality of such products can have a serious impact on health.

HISTORY

The word cosmetics derives from the Greek κοσμητικ? τ?χνη (kosmetik? tekhn?), meaning "technique of dress and ornament", from κοσμητικ?ς (kosm?tikos), "skilled in ordering or arranging" and that from κ?σμος (kosmos), meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".

Archaeological evidence of cosmetics dates at least from ancient Egypt and Greece. According to one source, early major developments include:[1]

Castor oil by ancient Egypt as a protective balm.

Skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater described by Romans.

Vaseline and lanolin in the nineteenth century.

Nivea Creme in 1911.

The Ancient Greeks also used cosmetics. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament—2 Kings 9:30 where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC—and the book of Esther describes various beauty treatments as well.

Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.

Of the major cosmetics firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company. The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after.

Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers, who have more recently been joined online by established outlets, including the major department stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers.

Although modern make-up has been used mainly by women traditionally, gradually an increasing number of males are using cosmetics usually associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial features. Cosmetics brands are releasing cosmetic products especially tailored for men, and men are using such products increasily more commonly.

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CRITICISM AND CONTROVERSY
Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body which are often formulated for different skin types per range, sunscreens to protect the skin from UV radiation and damage, skin lighteners, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.), tanning oils to brown the skin.

For each skin type present, the correct types of products must be used in order to maintain healthy and attractive skin.

Ethics
During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics increased rapidly. Cosmetics are increasingly used by girls at a young age, especially in the United States. Due to the fast-decreasing age of make-up users, many companies, from high-street brands like Rimmel to higher-end products like Estee Lauder, have catered to this expanding market by introducing more flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging and marketing and advertising using young models. The social consequences of younger and younger beautification has had much attention in the media over the last few years.

Criticism of cosmetics has come from a variety of sources including some feminists, religious groups, animal rights activists, authors and public interest groups. Growing awareness and preference for cosmetics exists for cosmetics lacking toxic ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and parabens.

Psychology of cosmetics use
The current literature on the motivation for cosmetics use is scarce A correlational study that surveyed thirty English women revealed that anxiety, self-presentation, and conformity are significantly positively correlated with the application of cosmetics, and social confidence, emotional stability, self-esteem, and physical attractiveness are significantly negatively correlated with cosmetics usage.  This data suggests that anxious, insecure females are motivated to apply cosmetics more so than females who are emotionally secure, socially confident and perceive themselves as physically attractive.

Another study conducted by Cash, Dawson, Davis, Bowen and Galumbeck, utilizing a sample of undergraduate college students, discovered that male peers tend to be harsher judges of a female's physical attractiveness than female peers are. It also revealed that females may overestimate their physical attractiveness when they are wearing makeup cosmetics.

Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products. A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to colored products intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics.

Cosmetics can be also described by the physical composition of the product. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrouscreams or sticks.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body which are often formulated for different skin types per range, sunscreens to protect the skin from UV radiation and damage, skin lighteners, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.), tanning oils to brown the skin.

For each skin type present, the correct types of products must be used in order to maintain healthy and attractive skin.

SKIN TYPES
There are five basic skin types, including:

Normal Skin
This type of skin has a fine, even and smooth surface due to having an ideal balance between oil and moisture contents and is therefore neither greasy nor dry. This type of skin needs minimal and gentle treatment.

Dry Skin
Dry skin has a parched appearance and tends to flake easily. It is prone to wrinkles and lines due to the inability to retain moisture, as well as, the inadequate production of sebum by sebaceous glands. Dry skin often has problems in cold weather as it dries up even further. Constant protection in the form of a moisturizer by day and a moisture-rich cream by night is essential.

Oily Skin
As its name implies, this type of skin’s surface is slightly to moderately greasy, which is caused by the over secretion of sebum. The excess oil on the surface of the skin draws dirt and dust from the environment to stick to it. Oily skin is usually prone to black heads, white heads, spots and pimples. It needs to be cleansed thoroughly every day.

Combination Skin
This is the most common type of skin. The oily parts are usually found on a central panel, called T – Zone, consisting of the forehead, nose and chin. The dry areas consist of the cheeks and the areas around the eyes and mouth. In such cases, each part of the face should be treated accordingly where the dry areas are treated as for dry skin and the central panel is treated as for oily skin.

Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin has a very fine texture and is excessively sensitive to changes in the climate. This skin type is easily irritated, bruised and/or scarred from bleaching, waxing, threading, perfumes, temperature extremes, soap, shaving creams, etc.

COSMETIC INDUSTRY
The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses.

The cosmetic industry worldwide seems to be continuously developing, now more than ever with the advent of the Internet companies. Many famous companies sell their cosmetic products online also in countries in which they do not have representatives.

Research on the email marketing of cosmetics to consumers suggests they are goal-oriented with email content that is seen as useful motivating them to visit a store to try the cosmetics or talk to sales representatives. Useful content included special sales offerings and new product information rather than makeup trends.

Legislation
The main directive in the EU affecting the manufacture, labeling and supply of cosmetics and personal care products is the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC. It applies to all the countries of the EU as well as Iceland, Norway and Switzerland. These regulations apply to single-person companies making or importing just one product as well as to large multinationals. In the UK the directive is enacted as the Cosmetic Product (safety) Regulations 2008.For manufacturers and importers of cosmetic products it is necessary to comply to the applying regulations in order to sell their products. In this industry it is common fall back on a suitably qualified person, such as an independent third party inspection and testing company, to verify the cosmetics’ compliance against the requirements of applicable cosmetic regulations and other relevant legislation, including REACH, GMP, hazardous substances, etc. In the European Union, the circulation of cosmetic products and their safety are law subjects since 1976. One of the newest amendments of the directive concerning cosmetic industry comes as a result of the attempt to ban animal testing. Therefore, testing cosmetic products on animals is illegal in the European Union from September 2004 and testing separate ingredients of such products on animals is also prohibited by law starting with March 2009.[48]

In the U.S. the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is the body making legislation in what concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects within the United States. The FDA joined with thirteen other Federal agencies in forming the Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) in 1997 which is an attempt to ban animal testing and find other methods to test the cosmetic products.

SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) is a learned society(professional association) based in the United States that supports scientific inquiry in the field of cosmetic science. The Founding Father of SCC is Maison G.de Navarre.

The Society website talks about the Society’s mission:

“Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific information through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists. Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry.”

ORIGINS
Founded in 1945 in New York, the SCC currently has over 3,800 members nationwide at all degree-levels. They have 18 Chapters throughout the United States and Canada which each conduct monthly meetings, hold educational seminars, and publish monthly newsletters.

EDUCATIONAL AND PROFESSIONAL ACTIVITIES
The SCC holds a national meeting once a year in New York City, and a national scientific meeting once a year in various cities around the country. It publishes a scholarly journal, the Journal of Cosmetic Science: The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists as well as various monographs about cosmetic testing and cosmetic ingredient technology.

CURRENT MAKE-UP TRENDS
Most women today understand the basics of wearing make-up. The traditional application methods are pretty basic and simple to master with a little practice. The variances are generally seen in color palettes available and finishes popularized at different points in time. But I’m sure many of you are seeing new cosmetic types being advertised and wonder what the differences are in these looks. So, let’s take a look at some of the current trends in cosmetics, from application methods, to formulations available, and even some new ideas for proper cosmetic uses in different age groups.

New Make-Up Formulas
The newest trend in make-up formulas is the emergence of “mineral” make-up which is purported to contain healthier formulations to provide benefits for the skin above the visible alteration of the skin’s appearance. A few of these mineral cosmetics are liquid or cream formulas, but the most popular versions of the mineral make-ups are in a powder form.

The benefits of these mineral powder make-up formulas are relatively easy to see: smoother, softer finish and lightweight coverage. Most mineral powder formulas are also hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic, which means that they are gentle to the skin, and are unlikely to cause allergic reactions or skin breakouts. They also make blending and contouring much easier since the powder formula offers an airbrushed appearance on the actual skin.

Mineral powder cosmetics, initially, were available only from television infomercials and online outlets, but more and more mainstream cosmetics companies are jumping on the mineral-powder make-up bandwagon. You can now find mineral powder make-up products by all the major name brand cosmetic companies, including Maybelline, Max Factor and L’Oreal, in nearly every make-up type: foundations, bronzing powders, blushers, and eye color.
 
New Philosophies in Makeup Use for Different Women
The soft, airbrushed finish of mineral powder cosmetics comes at a time when make-up artists and experts are encouraging women to understand the need to change the way they think of make-up finishes as they age. The youthful dewy look is OUT for women over thirty. For the older woman who wants to minimize the look of lines and wrinkles and look years younger you need to focus on a matte finish foundation. Even the “satin finish” makeup is wrong for women who are trying to look younger. Any foundation that has a “moist” look or finish is only going to draw attention to the lines and creases in the face.

As an example of the proper use of make-up to minimize the signs of aging, take a look at Dame Julie Andrews. At 73, the singer/actress still looks amazing. This is largely due to the correct use of cosmetics. The soft, matte finish shifts the focus of the eye to the shape and contours of the face and minimizes the attention paid to every little line and crease in the skin.

Younger women may still opt for a dewy look to give themselves that “glow” that they feel embodies the essence of youthfulness, but the overall look is more subtle rather than bold strokes.

Another new(ish) trend in cosmetic styles is subtlety. We’ve been advocating a natural look for some time, but the trends are finally following the recommendations. Makeup is meant to “enhance” a woman’s natural beauty. Seen here are the lovely actresses Julie Benz and Jada Pinkett Smith, whose looks epitomize the spirit of the trend toward natural looking cosmetic use. The blusher and lip color are soft and meant to give a hint of color while the eye color is neutral and serves the designated purpose of adding depth and brightening the eyes. The eyeliner and mascara are sparingly applied, giving definition to the eyes without being.

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New Trends in Makeup Effects
One of the newest trends in makeup effects is all about the eyes. Over the years we’ve seen everything imaginable in eye color application: from the lashes to brow solid block of color to the three-color contouring look. These days, the newest look in eye color application involves application of the eye color in a bold line along the upper lid, or at least along the half of the upper lid closest to the lashes. The goal is to create an enhancement of the upper lid to make the eyes appear brighter and more open.

The applied color may be left cleanly defined, as seen here with actress Keesha Sharp or singer Mariah Carey, or it may be softly smudged and blended upward. The technique is sometimes modified to include a thin line of color along the lash edge of the lower lid as well.

Keeping the effect soft is generally the desired look, therefore the color is often blended using a brush to give an “airbrushed” effect. This works especially well on bold colors and effects to provide a dramatic finish to an otherwise boring technique. In fact, take a look here at actress/singer Jennifer Hudson, whose frosty blue eye shadow is softened into a halo around the eyes to enhance the warmth and richness of her ebon eyes and avoid the 1970s “Disco Diva” look.

All in all, today’s cosmetic trends are simple and pretty much based in common sense. Soft and subtle looks are preferred over heavily made-up finishes. Matte foundations are ideal for blending away lines and wrinkles among aging women. Natural and neutral colors are ideal for enhancing the individual’s natural beauty. 

OUTSOURCING TRENDS
Cosmetic Industry & India Globalization
Keeping in view of India emerging as Highly potential Global Outsourcing & Solutions Provider for finished Consumer products & General Merchandise. India has always kept her stand in Global competition right from the beginning for Finished Products such as Cosmetic & Toiletries but limited to certain market segments.

After recent globalization and change in policies the opportunities for manufacturers & exporters have widen. Today we can say that the producers are coming-off their age from traditional methods. The developments are becoming trend setting. The Manufacturers are versatile to cope up with the vibrant consumer behavior.

The globalization in terms of foreign trends & acceptability has penetrated finely into the Indian buying market and so is the Local manufacturer’s struggle to captivate the opportunities by matching the same trends & international qualities.

The practice of quality control & organizational management has improved drastically by emergence of New generation working as a Team work. All this things has together gained importance for a Foreign Buyer seeking his eyes to create a valuable outsourcing partner in India.

What’s so appealing about Outsourcing a Cosmetic Product for a European Buyer from India?

We discuss here some important aspects for this.

The Research base in India have revolutionalized with exceptional Education. Indian cosmetic companies employ experienced cosmetologist & PHDs for research & product development.

Indian Engineering Industry have created State of the Art Process machineries for renowned Pharmaceuticals & Cosmetic Industries worldwide. It’s inevitable that the Process engineering today is expertly competed by India.

The Skilled & Unskilled Labour even today is a Prime resource for Lower value addition in India.

Quality Control, Lab trials & ISO accreditation Practices is a Prime criteria which companies adopt for their creditability.

All kinds of Packaging materials & Raw Materials are easily outsourced from Local access. For a particular Input a Producer have an option of more than 5 vendors in the Indian local competitive thriven market..

New Policies & Sectors such as Special Economic Zones cut outs completely Tax burdens & overheads.

Indian Policies for Export is Not subsidized. Country like China wherein the Producers enjoy unreasonable government subsidies are not reliable for long term partnership. As we are not sure when can a product from China crash from global competition.

Information Technology as India being pioneer, have made communications made more & more fast & convenient. Designing & Branding Solutions can be provided at highly professional level, at economic costs.

Stringent Laws for protection of Brands & Copyrights.

The Business for India is beyond private label supplies for Chain stores & Dollar Shops. We see India in near future as partnering for Giant brands of Europe & American Segments.

Amongst the Cosmetics & Toiletries, with a professional outsource job owners produces a wide range of Creams, Lotions, Talcum Powders, Tooth Pastes, Body Oil, Baby Products, Toilet Soaps, Compacts, Shampoos, Conditioners, etc. with constant knowledge & update of New-age Active Ingredients & Packaging.

CONCLUSION
Beauty has to be developed and caring of skin and hair is vital. Though with multi tasking, responsibilities and chores most women ignore the basics about skin care. The result is pigmentation, patchy skin, rough elbows and also rashes. Though one must regularly use branded products and trusted home remedies it is also important to go in for a moderate exercise regime to get that glow.
Meditation is preferable to medication and lowering stress can automatically result in good skin. Choosing a personal style is very much related to lifestyle. If you are working from home or a stay at home mom there are few opportunities for you to doll yourself. But it is very much needed to use cosmetics that help you portray a confident image. Opportunities like girls meet or parties are a wonderful way to dress up with the right kind of makeup.
Choosing cosmetics depends on age, attitude, skin type and complexion. Dark skin tend to avoid red tones and stick to browns. Though there is no reason for such type casting, it is important that one uses a sensible combination. Lipsticks and eye makeup are the most important way to enhance facial features. These are regularly used by all.
Cosmetics are also to be chosen as per the profession. In case you are a 9 to 5 professional and in a corporate position then loud make up is a strict no-no. One has to have a image and decorum to conduct business. A neutral tone in lipstick and subtle eye makeup is more than necessary. If you commute a lot it is better to touch up on the basics when you reach office and tie your hair well to avoid the pollution.
Use simple styles if you are a teenager. The latest teen look is about going natural. Lip balms are adequate and one could use a mild lining in the upper eye for a daily look. Carnivals and days in college can bring about glitter and glamour in your with smoky eyes and elaborate haircuts. The look is always complete after proper coordination.
Go for nourishing elements like apples, peaches, aloe vera and strawberry in the face masks and shampoos. Cleaning lotions also have soothing varieties. Milk and cream again may not suit an oil skin. Apricot scrubs exfoliate the skin. Nail polish colors or lipstick liners also relate to age and skin colour.

REFERENCES
1. en.wikipedia.org/wiki.cosmetic
2. scconline.org/website/about_scc/index_about.shtml
3. greatestlook.com/advice/make-up-trends.htm
4. streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/4416/home_improvement/global_outsourcing_of_cosmetics.html
5. cosmetics.co.in/

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